|
| |
- Is it really necessary to use a lubricant when
using my diamond stone file?
- I've been inserting my diamond stone file into
my side edge sharpener (orange plastic) for pre and post touch ups...I suspect that the
angle is not exactly correct (the same as metal file) due to the indentation and writing
on the back side of the diamond stone. Can anyone verify this and suggest a solution?
- If I use sandpaper for structuring, what is
suggested for the final pass after waxing? (to put that structure back in)
- I'm interested in any waxing tricks: mixing
waxes, additives, etc. (esp. ones that don't cost an arm and a leg!)
- Priorities, i.e., is it more important to
have, say, a file holder to get the edge angle correct or a waxing iron?
- What are the recommended makes or types of
tools and waxes? Do you have a prioritized list of the tools and manufacturers?
- Is Reliable Racing a good place to get tuning
tools?
1. Is it really necessary to use a lubricant when using
my diamond stone file?
Quick answer: No, but it does help!
Long answer: Diamond stones and ceramic stones are used for two purposes.
First, to take the burrs off the edges after a day of skiing (especially if you've seen
some ice or, God forbid, rocks!) before you start filing. Second, to take the fine burrs
of the edges after you have completed your filing (oh yes, they're there, use a magnifying
glass and you'll see them). A diamond or ceramic stone will polish up the edges and harden
them against future burring. Some diamond stones can be used with a lubricant (water or
"polishing solution"), others should not. All ceramic stones can be used with a
lubricant. The lubricant is not necessary but it does save wear on the stone and helps to
produce a smoother sharper edge (of course, we have to remember this is all as viewed with
a magnifying glass).
Back to Top
2. I've been inserting my diamond stone file into my side edge
sharpener (orange plastic) for pre and post touch ups...I suspect that the angle is not
exactly correct (the same as metal file) due to the indentation and writing on the back
side of the diamond stone. Can anyone verify this and suggest a solution?
Quick Answer: Yes, it probably does affect the angle. A quick
solution might be to sand the back side flat (they're usually plastic). Another solution
would be to purchase a flat back diamond stone of a different manufacturer. There are
several on the market.
Long Answer: The edge sharpener mentioned here is a
variable edge sharpener which has the ability to adjust angles. It's a good tool and
provides multiple settings for a reasonable cost. It's not as accurate a tool as a fixed
degree guide however so the minute change in angle you may experience between a file and a
diamond stone will probably not have a big effect on the edge. Another solution would be
to buy a fixed angle guide with a clamp. The down side is that you now have only one angle
for about 3/4 the cost of the variable tuner. However, the new shaped skis are now
designed with a specific bevel built in. Most manufacturers will recommend you keep that
bevel for maximum performance. K2 for example uses 1 degree on both the base and sides.
Back to Top
3. If I use sandpaper for structuring, what is suggested for the
final pass after waxing? (to put that structure back in)
Quick Answer: A nylon brush with warmer (softer) waxes. A brass brush
followed by a nylon brush for colder (harder) waxes.
Long Answer: "Structure" is the fine groves that get placed
into the base of the ski just before waxing. The typical way to due this is with either a
stainless steel brush, a "structure tool" or varying degrees of sand paper
depending on how much of a structure you need (less for cold conditions, more for warm).
The "structure" helps break the suction that forms between a flat ski and the
snow as it glides along (no kidding, this really happens). Once a ski is
"structured" it should be cleaned well (Fiberlene Cloth) before waxing. When wax
is applied, it fills in all the structure, so it needs to be removed back out. That's the
purpose of brushing a ski after waxing, to get the structure back (of course you have to
scrape first).
Back to Top
4. I'm interested in any waxing tricks: mixing waxes, additives, etc.
(esp. ones that don't cost an arm and a leg!)
Quick Answer: No such thing! Just kidding, waxing is a whole book in
itself. Below are some ideas that may help.
Long Answer: Where to start? First off, you can never over wax a ski.
Waxing helps keep the base lubricated and keeps the Ptex from drying up and getting
"burnt". When the base dries up, the pours in the Ptex close and it won't
receive more wax easily. No wax, no good skiing, throw out skis! So wax often with an iron
on a low setting (be patient, what's your hurry!). That said, most waxing can be done with
"training waxes". Artech (see below) sells bulk waxes at reasonable prices.
their training waxes come in warm and cold and cost $21 for 1 Kilogram (which will last a
long long time, many seasons). The nice thing about these waxes is they are both easy to
apply. These are acceptable for all training and many of our younger racers (J6 and
younger) for race day. The next level are hydrocarbons (CH). These are a little more
expensive and designed for more specific temperatures. It's probably better to buy these
in combo packs where you get several temperatures in one package. If you use training wax,
you only need these for races. CH7 is a good versatile wax, it's designed for 18 to 28 F.
This is a good wax to use at lower temperature also, mixed in with a little of the desired
cold wax (CH 4 or CH 6) for the given temperature. Cold wax is hard to apply and usually
requires more heat which is not good for the ski. "Cutting" a colder wax with
CH7 will make you and the ski happier, plus you buy less CH4 & 6. Warmer waxes (CH 8
& CH 10) can be applied as is. Hydrocarbons are fine for J6, J5 and even J4s to some
point. You'll see other parents applying the expensive stuff on the hill but they just
like to show off and throw their money down the slope (which is what we're all doing
anyway). As the racers get older and become more competitive, you may want to move
"up" (which means more $) into fluorocarbons. These come in varied mixes; low
flouro, high flouro and pure flouro. You still need the hydrocarbons, these are now
considered "base" waxes which you then cover with the "racing" wax.
Enough on this for now. Makes you want to consider the candles off the dining table
doesn't it?
Back to Top
5. Priorities, i.e., is it more important to have, say, a file holder
to get the edge angle correct or a waxing iron?
Quick Answer: Both!
Long Answer: Priorities! There are some basics that help to get the
job done right. They include a set of vices (to hold the ski), files, some sort of edge
file guide (discussed above), a brass brush, a nylon brush, a plastic scraper, waxes and
an iron. From here, you can obviously get more. Some of the tools and supplies are
discussed above. All of the suppliers (below) have starter kits and then a whole
assortment of things to choose from. So go shopping!
Back to Top
6.What are the recommended makes or types of tools and waxes? Do you
have a prioritized list of the tools and manufacturers?
Quick Answer: Just buy it all! (just kidding here)
Long Answer: TBC (to be continued). I don't have time to get into a
list tonight, I have to finish my son's ski's for this weekend. But, I promise to get a
list together with next weeks edition of Ski Tips.
Back to Top
7. Is Reliable Racing a good place to get tuning
tools?
Quick Answer: Yes, unfortunately I don't have their phone numbers or
address handy right now.
Long Answer: Two other suppliers are:
"Michel Pratte" - 1-800-641-3327, Fax 1-800-641-3324, www.mprattesport.com
"Artech" -
1-603-632-9152, Fax
1-603-632-9360, www.artechski.com,
e-mail - Artech@endor.com
I tend to use Artech a lot. I find they are 7 to 10% cheaper and George (Pat is his wife)
is always available to answer tuning questions. I try to pick his brain every time I
order.
Back to Top
|